Camden Archives - Down East Magazine Experience the Best of Maine Tue, 03 Oct 2023 19:50:10 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.2.2 https://downeast.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/cropped-DE_Black_Dot-32x32.png Camden Archives - Down East Magazine 32 32 64276155 4 Maine Makers Putting a Fresh Spin on Stained-Glass https://downeast.com/maine-made/4-maine-makers-putting-a-fresh-spin-on-stained-glass/ Wed, 23 Nov 2022 18:45:08 +0000 https://downeast.com/?p=193140 By Adrienne Perron
From our November 2022 issue
stained-glass seagull in a nest

The Glass Feather

Vet tech Heather Burgess (@the.glass.feather) learned the craft seven years ago from old hands Lisa and Dave Roy, at Bucksport’s stalwart Stubborn Cow glass studio. Today, her work is on display at several Maine galleries, including Camden’s Small Wonder Gallery and the Maine Coastal Island National Wildlife Refuge Visitor Center, in Rockland. Burgess doesn’t put her work in frames; instead, she mounts some of her pieces — which might include paper cranes, loons, coral, or mermaids — on pieces of driftwood, giving them a little sculptural flair.

Seagull Adrift, $200.

Girl with a Glass Heart

On a whim, Roberta Mershimer (@girlwithaglassheart) took an eight-week community-ed course in stained glass shortly after moving to South Paris, back in the ’80s. Two weeks in, she was hooked enough to buy her own glass grinder. Her work since has included entire kitchen windows, pieces that encapsulate bike gears inside glass patterns, and round window hangings depicting moose in the mountains. For extra Maine-y flair, she frames some of her work using wooden snowshoes.

Great Blue Heron, $350. Mershimer’s work is for sale at Norway’s Food for Thought café or via Instagram.

stained-glass great blue heron
stained-glass daisy

Luna Glass Design

In 2020, Kaela Brennan (@lunaglassdesign_) met her partner, John, a glassblower, and before long she was making glass pendants in his backyard studio. A year later, she got a job with Manchester’s Stained Glass Express, and soon she was creating her own stained-glass designs. “I use my photographs of nature and trace them to create patterns,” she says. Many of her pieces focus on animals, and some of her favorite projects are custom orders to stained-glass-ify pets (including, recently, a pit bull in a beanie and shades).

Daisy, $100. Brennan’s work is for sale on Instagram.

Botanic Magic

A Maine College of Art and Design masters program drew Lauren Berg (@botanic_magic) from New York to Maine, in 2017. After graduating, she set about brainstorming ways to blend her passions for art and herbalism, eventually buying a soldering iron and incorporating pressed botanicals into stained glass made from shards she collected on roadsides. “Herbalism taught me about the fragility of Maine’s ecosystem,” the Warren-based artist says. “I wanted to preserve botanicals in something that was strong but also fragile, as a metaphor.” These days, she uses more-professional materials, and her signature pieces frame plants and seaweed inside simple, colorful shapes.

Queen Anne’s Lace Mooncatcher, $115.

Queen Anne's Lace Mooncatcher

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Down East Magazine, November 2022
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Camden’s wolfpeach Restaurant is Unorthodox — and Unmissable https://downeast.com/food-drink/wolfpeach/ Fri, 11 Nov 2022 20:18:48 +0000 https://downeast.com/?p=192516 By Brian Kevin
Photographed by Hannah Hoggatt
From our November 2022 issue

Two unorthodox decisions paved the way, recently, for one of the best dinners I’ve had out all year. The first was when I reserved a table for a wedding-anniversary date night at a new-ish restaurant my wife and I had never visited. A roll of the dice! But we’d been slow to call around, and all our favorite spots around Camden were booked solid. So when I saw a single 8 p.m. slot available at wolfpeach, a farm-to-table, fine-dining place that had opened last winter, I nabbed it without even consulting Elsa.

Gabriela Acero and Derek Richard, owners of wolfpeach
Richard and Acero, on wolfpeach’s unassuming front stoop.

wolfpeach’s proprietors, Gabriela Acero and Derek Richard, stylize the name (a translation of the Greek-derived scientific name for a tomato) with a lower-case w, the kind of convention flouting that irks copy editors and that, frankly, this magazine would typically choose to ignore. Except this was among a handful of details Elsa and I had absorbed about wolfpeach that had given us the vague impression it might be, well, a bit precious. It surely didn’t help that the restaurant occupies an 1840 modified Federal that was formerly the Drouthy Bear, a Scottish pub shuttered by the pandemic that we liked for its burger and lack of pretense. Or that photos of lovely, spartan dishes on wolfpeach’s social-media feeds were accompanied by declarations about “centering community and creating joy, both of which are their own forms of power and resistance” — perfectly admirable sentiments that could nonetheless read a little woo-woo. And maybe something rang a smidge messianic about the GoFundMe video Acero and Richard circulated last fall, explaining how wolfpeach would depart from the flawed “normal restaurant model” by, among other things, abolishing tips and paying all staffers a living wage.

But ugh, these were petty observations of a grumpy, aging Xer who’s lived in small-town Maine for too long. And on one’s anniversary, one must eat. So we went, and man, am I glad we did.

wolfpeach
50 Elm St., Camden.
207-230-8315
Price Range
Appetizers $5–$15, salads $14–$20, entrées $32–$42 (gratuity included)
Dessert
One option each night, big on baked goods and often more wholesome than sweet. A recent visit found a peach rye upside- down cake, indulgent but subtle, served with rosemary cream.
Shared Space
Though it’s a bit of a fine-dining splurge, Acero and Richard envision a community restaurant rather than a destination one. wolfpeach has hosted pop-ups, art shows, and cooking classes and is available gratis to community groups on nights it’s closed.

The space that houses wolfpeach has lost none of its charm since the pub moved out. It’s a former B&B invariably described as snug, with wood floors and a beautiful, six-seat bar separated from the main dining room by a big brick hearth. Cozy as it is, the room is uncluttered: Windsor chairs, fresh flowers, a single bookshelf. Low lit, its walls minimally adorned (with, among other works, some cool abstract inks by midcoast illustrator Chelsea Witt), the place has a parlor feel, graceful and welcoming and not at all precious.

That feel of elegant simplicity extends to the menu, which on our visit contained just 13 items, none described in more than six words. The single word “love” alongside a fermented dilly-bean starter was probably the twee-est thing about the whole evening. But what more to say? We did love the crisp and tangy beans, grown down the road at Monroe’s Second Frost Farm (I asked). We also loved, off the small-plates list, a tray of oysters from South Thomaston’s Weskeag Oyster Company, a jar of bright and piquant kimchi, and a basket of sourdough bread, a passion of Richard’s, which was near to the Platonic ideal of sourdough: crispy outside, cloudlike inside, and served with butter flecked with bits of kelp from Biddeford’s Atlantic Sea Farms. (We over-ordered starters; a table of two could suffice with one or two.)

Local sourcing is enshrined at wolfpeach, as Acero and Richard explained during a follow-up visit. “I feel bad when I get food that’s from, like, southern Maine,” laughed Richard, who runs the three-person kitchen, while fiancée Acero oversees the beverage program and front-of-house. Restricting ingredients to what’s farmed, fished, or foraged nearby isn’t just an ethical decision. “I kind of like forcing myself and my cooks into limitations,” Richard explained. “I think when you have access to everything, then you can’t make anything. But if it’s like, ‘We only have these 10 things — how do we make a creative menu out of that?’ then there’s much more room to use different techniques and approaches. How do we make a tomato three different ways on our menu, and they’re all delicious?”

Beet salad, with shiitake mushrooms and smoked candied walnut; smoked pork chop with peach-and-poblano compote.

Acero, a Waterville native and a vet of several buzzy NYC restaurants, and Richard, who cut his teeth at the Hudson Valley’s Michelin-starred Blue Hill at Stone Barns, let that essentialist approach inform the restaurant’s whole concept. Initially, they conceived it as a “Maine riff on a chophouse,” Acero said, “kind of paying homage to old classic scenes in New York and Montreal and Chicago, but not necessarily using beef at all.” The influence is evident on wolfpeach’s approach to entrées: three are typically on offer — usually a meat, a veggie pasta, and a lower-on-the-food-chain fish (don’t come looking for tuna or halibut) — and they’re served unaccompanied and simply plated, to be complemented, if you like, with something off an a la carte menu of shareable salads.

Which brings me to my second unorthodox decision: I am an ambivalent carnivore who almost never orders a big slab of meat. But Elsa got the pasta alla norma, and I wasn’t up for the whole trout, so I ordered the smoked pork chop, and hoo boy. It was downright luscious — a generous loin, impossibly tender and pleasantly gamey and just a little sweet, ringed with a halo of smoky char and fat, topped with a peach-and-poblano compote and sage crisped in butter. The meat was raised at Bristol’s Broad Arrow Farm, where, coincidentally, I’d been the week before, my kids tossing acorns and bread chunks to the pasture-raised heritage hogs. About every two weeks, Broad Arrow supplies wolfpeach with a pig, which is butchered in-house.

Whole trout in a summer-vegetable succotash
Whole trout in a summer-vegetable succotash.

Other than the chop, my plate was bare. “I’ve just always hated extraneous garnishes,” Richard told me later. “I think a lot of chefs count on plating techniques and the amount of ingredients in a dish to cover up for technique and skill.”

Elsa’s pasta was similarly simple and decadent, with savory eggplant playing nicely off dollops of sweet and garlicky Dairy Duet cheese, a cow-and-goat-milk blend, from Washington’s York Hill Farm. A succotash-like salad of charred corn and tomatoes, in a fermented tomato vinaigrette, was light and just right as a shared side. (wolfpeach is big on house fermentation — not least because Maine’s winters are long and its growing season short.)

drinks from wolfpeach's bar
Left to right: a Nathan K Dry Riesling 2020, from New York’s Finger Lakes region; peach clarified-milk punch, one of several boozy, house-made milk punches, made with organic milk from Thomaston’s Grace Pond Farm; a Bramble Fizz, house maple kombucha that’s subsequently topped with aromatized wine; a Plum Spritz, house plum-whey soda with Luce aquavit; and a Parsnip Punch.

The unique beverage program deserves more attention than I’m giving it, totally focused on the Northeast, with no European wines and a small, smart list of beers, ciders, and unconventional spirits, all made in Maine or nearby (Acero and Richard met while helping open Oxbow Brewing Company’s Oxford restaurant and beer garden). We stuck to cocktails, Elsa’s a refreshing concoction of cucumber and aquavit from Rockland’s Luce Spirits, mine a “parsnip punch,” made with a blackened-parsnip simple syrup, house bitters, Vermont-made ice cider, and rum from Camden’s Blue Barren Distillery. It was, like the entire evening, sophisticated but none-too-complicated — and deeply comforting.

Also none-too-complicated? Settling the bill without tipping. Acero expected some diners to be perplexed by it, but for the most part, she says, everyone seems to like the no-tipping mandate, and questions about the policy have made for welcome entries into deeper discussions about wolfpeach’s philosophy and approach. The service, meanwhile, was gracious and didn’t miss a beat. Sometimes, unorthodox moves are the right ones.


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Down East Magazine, November 2022
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November 2022 https://downeast.com/issues/november-2022/ Tue, 01 Nov 2022 17:48:21 +0000 https://downeast.com/?p=191664 Features

Taking the Long View

An aerial photographer took to the skies to capture Maine’s stunning, surreal, and vulnerable coastline, offering a unique perspective on Maine communities anticipating the effects of sea-level rise.

Photographed by Alex MacLean | Text by Kate Cough

Tales from the Borderlands

More than 600 miles of international border separates Maine from Quebec and New Brunswick. But for the people who live on either side, that line isn’t a source of division so much as an axis of connection.

by Will Grunewald, Brian Kevin, Joyce Kryszak, Mary Pols, and David Shribman

The Walk

In 1972, little-known Bangor mayor Bill Cohen set out on a walk clear across the state to convince voters to send him to Washington. A new book looks back at the 650-mile jaunt that became a Maine political tradition.

Special Advertising section: Ask an Artisan

You can’t go wrong giving handmade gifts — and three Maine artisans have the scoop on what to look for this holiday season.

By Tina Fischer

Paid Content Section: Nonprofit Spotlights


Departments

North by East

The endurance junkie running every Portland street, the ironic trend lifting L.L.Bean tote sales, and the exhibition showing off a different side of Alex Katz. Plus, in Maine Dispatches, puffins are flying high again.

Food and Drink

A farmer embraces tartness in an organic cranberry bog. A couple of restaurateurs serve up super-local (and super-good) meals at Camden’s wolfpeach. Collectors look out for lighthouse-shaped bottles of Maine’s favorite coffee liqueur.

Good Things from Maine

A Penobscot elder makes birch-bark moose calls, and four artists break the mold with stained glass. Also, come for the oysters and stay for a downtown Damariscotta shopping spree.

Maine Homes

A colorful cottage in Sullivan, a tunnel of gourds in New Gloucester, and mini-houses in everyone’s backyards.

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Where In Maine

Maine Moment

Dooryard

Editor’s note, reader feedback, responses to September’s Where in Maine, and more.

Columns

My Maine: Cheney, Matthiessen, and Me; Room With a View.

My Favorite Place

Artist Ian Trask, on the organic garden at Bowdoin College.


On Our Cover: Saltwater marsh in Wells, by Alex MacLean.

Additional photos: Alex MacLean, Hannah Hoggatt, and Benjamin Williamson.

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October 2022 https://downeast.com/issues/october-2022/ Tue, 04 Oct 2022 13:56:51 +0000 https://downeast.com/?p=190621 Features

Salt Cream Seafood Heat

We asked three Maine chowder aficionados — chefs Matt Spector and Christian Hayes and Governor Janet Mills — to share their favorite takes on the classic New England dish.

By Alexandra Hall

Where Have All the Phalaropes Gone?

Millions of showy little shorebirds once descended on Passamaquoddy Bay during their fall migration. Then, they vanished. Among those who remember the birds, the mystery of their disappearance presaged a new era of environmental change in Maine.

By Willy Blackmore

All But Crying With Color

Autumn brings a pastoral luster to the midcoast’s Camden Hills. Experience it in photos — then plan your getaway.

Photographed by Benjamin Williamson


Departments

North by East

Maine’s oldest towns square off in a York County border war, a once-neglected Waldoboro theater is reborn, and a buzzy new book looks at Penobscot identity in the 21st century. Plus, in Maine Dispatches, a destroyed culvert creates a 143-mile detour.

Food and Drink

This round’s on us: our Maine Drinks special highlights new uses for classic Maine ingredients — from apples to potatoes to seaweed — in wines, beers, spirits, teas, and more.

Good Things from Maine

A Wiscasset shopkeeper’s handmade brooms will sweep you off your feet, an Islesboro maker’s walking sticks will keep your feet planted, and you’ll learn new artisan feats during the annual Maine Craft Weekend.

Maine Homes

A 1900 Waterville Foursquare that fulfilled one family’s Maine dream. New additions to a scandalous list of banished plants. Four historic Maine homes with great architecture and ghost stories.

Paid Content Section: Maine’s B Corps and ESOPs

More Maine companies are taking new approaches to business that emphasize their commitments to employees, their communities, the environment, and more.

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Where In Maine

Maine Moment

Dooryard

Editor’s note, reader feedback, responses to August’s Where in Maine, and more.

Columns

Waterfront: Maine-Built Electric Boats; Room With a View.

My Favorite Place

UMaine at Fort Kent soccer coach Oniqueky Samuels, on his town’s Lonesome Pine Trails.


On Our Cover: Camden’s Mount Battie summit, by Benjamin Williamson.

Additional photos: Derek Bissonnette, Tara Rice, and Benjamin Williamson.

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Why the Camden Hills Should Be Your Fall Foliage Getaway https://downeast.com/travel-outdoors/why-the-camden-hills-should-be-your-fall-foliage-getaway/ Wed, 28 Sep 2022 16:20:19 +0000 https://downeast.com/?p=190815 Photographed by Benjamin Williamson
Text By Brian Kevin
From our October 2022 issue

The autumn was Edna St. Vincent Millay’s favorite season — or anyway, it was the time of year that seemed to find the Camden-reared, Jazz Age poet at her most rapturous. “Oh, Autumn! Autumn!—What is the Spring to me?” she beseeched in one poem, denigrating mud season like a true Mainer. In another of her many autumn verses, she extolled the season’s stillness, which “will lie upon the spirit like that haze / touching far islands on fine autumn days.” Growing up, Millay glimpsed far islands from the wooded Camden Hills, which seemed, in the fall, to “ache and sag and all but cry with color,” as she wrote in “God’s World,” one of her best-known works. Wander Camden and its surrounding towns — arcadian hamlets like Lincolnville, Hope, Union, and Rockport — during foliage season, and it’s easy to see what left Millay so euphoric. From the harbors to the hilltops to the rolling pastures, from the vibrant hues of the early season to the rustier tones of its waning days, there is a romance to autumn in the Camden Hills that no place in New England can match.

Looking towards distant Mount Pleasant from Union’s Coggins Hill.

For the Active Leaf Peeper

STAY at the Captain Swift Inn (72 Elm St., Camden; 207-230-4028) and take advantage of the loaner bikes that innkeepers Jeff and Shelly Cramp keep on hand for guests. Hang a right just down the block, on Union Street, to pedal a four-ish–mile circuit through Rockport (a loop with Russell Avenue and Chestnut Street) that passes the leafy pastures, stone walls, and Belted Galloways at Aldermere Farm (70 Russell Ave., Rockport; 207-236-2739). Back at the inn, a gorgeously restored 1810 Colonial, bring a drink from the bar out to the side yard for lawn games, then settle by the firepit when it gets too dark for bocce.

HIKE some of the 30 miles of trails at Camden Hills State Park (280 Belfast Rd.; 207-236-0849), undoubtedly the best place in the area for sweeping foliage views. Yes, anyone with wheels can drive a mile and a half up the Mount Battie Auto Road, but you’ll appreciate the views of Camden Harbor and Penobscot Bay much more for hiking the steep, half-mile Mount Battie Trail to the overlook, from the trailhead at the end of Megunticook Street. Less crowded, equally rewarding is the view from Maiden Cliff, which takes in Megunticook Lake and, beyond, the wooded whalebacks of Bald and Ragged mountains. The shortest route is a moderately taxing mile (one way) from the trailhead on Route 52 right across from Barrett’s Cove public beach — which isn’t out of the question for a post-hike dip, if it’s warm-ish and you’re hardy. A gentler walk (or a lovely bike ride) is the stone-and-gravel Round the Mountain Trail, a wide, rolling path encircling Ragged Mountain, with views of tucked-away ponds (and possibly deer, eagles, and other wildlife) along the way. The best place to access is at the Thorndike Brook Trailhead, on Hope Street, in Hope.

PACK a picnic lunch from the Lincolnville General Store (269 Main St., Lincolnville; 207-763-4411), where the sandwiches in the cooler are prodigious (and the wine inventory is small but excellent). For all your gear needs, Maine Sport (115 Commercial St., Rockport; 207-236-7120) is the midcoast’s sprawling outdoor retailer. Rent just about anything at the flagship store, from tents to SUPs to e-bikes (retail-focused locations in downtown Camden and Rockland as well).

Fishing on the Megunticook River at Camden’s Hodson Park; the spoils of the season at Beth’s Farm Market, in Warren. Click to enlarge.

For the Leaf-Peeping Gourmand

STAY at the Hartstone Inn (41 Elm St., Camden; 207-236-4259), where even if you don’t reserve a table for one of chef Brian Granims’s elegant prix fixe dinners, the many packages and add-ons include fancy picnic lunches (to-go lobster rolls, anyone?) and wine and champagne pairings. Or book a room at 16 Bay View (16 Bay View St., Camden; 844-213-7990), right in the heart of Camden’s waterfront dining strip, with two snazzy in-house small-plates bars: the clubby Vintage Room and the View, a covered rooftop terrace with a fun craft-cocktail menu.

DINE your way across Camden, which, for a town of fewer than 5,000, hosts an outsize amount of culinary talent. Highlights include the intimate, authentic Thai dishes at Paula Palakawong and chef Bas Nakjaroen’s perennial James Beard Award nominee Long Grain (20 Washington St., Camden; 207-236-9001), and standout brasserie fare at the lovely, low-lit Franny’s Bistro (55 Chestnut St., Camden; 207-230-8199). Outside of town, 18 Central (18 Central St., Rockport; 207-466-9055) and Primo (2 Main St., Rockland; 207-596-0770) are both date-night destinations that make the most of their settings — the former a raw bar and upscale grill overlooking Rockport Harbor, the latter an Italian-influenced farm-to-table temple on its very own farm.

DRINK what’s locally brewed, vinted, or distilled in a few quintessentially Maine settings. Organic, rustic wines and ciders are on offer at Oyster River Winegrowers’ Camden tasting room (31 Elm St.), an unassuming former antique shop with the only courtyard tippling on the town’s main drag. For something stronger, try nano-distillery Luce Spirits (474 Main St., Rockland), which mixes cocktails with its house aquavit and juniper gin in a speakeasy-ish space in downtown Rockland. Or the brand-new Barren’s Distillery and Restaurant (2 Wayfarer Dr., Camden; 207-230-8422), the best barstool in town for views of both the harbor and the Camden Hills. For a truly singular happy-hour setting, several of those schooners in the harbor host BYOB sunset cruises — and the Schooner Appledore (207-593-2023) has a full bar.

The view from Rockport’s Mount Pleasant, including Grassy Pond and the ledges of Ragged Mountain, the Eastern Seaboard’s fourth-highest peak; the 26-foot stone tower atop Mount Battie was built in 1921 to honor veterans of the Great War. Click to enlarge.

For Those With Little Leaf Peepers

STAY at the Camden Maine Riverhouse Hotel (11 Tannery Ln., Camden; 207-236-0500) or the Country Inn at Camden Rockport (8 Country Inn Way, Rockport; 207-236-2725). The former is in the heart of downtown Camden, the latter a few minutes’ drive, but both have the rarest of Camden amenities: an indoor pool. Through September, there’s an ice-cream stand across a footbridge from the Riverhouse and a mini-golf course next door to the Country Inn — alas, they’re both closed come October and peak leaf-peeping season.

TREAT yourself to some absurdly decadent and photogenic cupcakes at Laugh Loud Smile Big (38 Main St., Camden; 207-230-7001), the confectioner that dares to ask, what if a whoopie pie were a cupcake? (It’d have marshmallow-fluff buttercream between two cakey chocolate halves.) The only more attractive bakery case on the midcoast is at Ruckus Donuts (377 Main St., Rockland; 207-975-4388), where the smart money is the maple cream — buttermilk brioche pastry filled with Italian buttercream and topped with a maple glaze made from Maine’s Frontier Sugarworks organic syrup.

WANDER the 10-acre corn maze at Beth’s Farm Market (1986 Western Rd., Warren; 207-273-3695), where you can stock up on apples and pumpkin treats and other seasonal bounty while the kids are lost in the stalks or atop the straw-bale pyramid or enjoying a hayride. The wooded 1.4-mile trail at the Erickson Fields Preserve (164 West St., Rockport) is not only gentle enough for any age, it’s marked here and there by kiosks with pages from a storybook by Maine children’s author Liza Gardner Walsh, so little hikers can read about the fall fairy gathering as they roam the woods.

RIDE the triple chairlift up and down Ragged Mountain at Camden Snow Bowl (20 Barnestown Rd., Camden; 207-236-3438) on Sundays in October for some of the finest foliage views — and Penobscot Bay overlooks — you can get without breaking a sweat.

The long ridge of 1,385-foot Mount Megunticook looms behind Camden Snow Bowl, where chairlift riders enjoy some of the area’s best foliage views.

For the Cultured Leaf Peeper

STAY at boutique-y Whitehall (52 High St., Camden; 207-236-3391), where poet Edna St. Vincent Millay once entertained guests with verse — she’s honored with a portrait and display amid the lobby’s mod and splashy furnishings. Contemporary Maine artists fill the walls there and at 250 Main (250 Main St., Rockland; 207-594-5994), which has a similarly chic vibe and industrial-whimsical décor. Whitehall has a wraparound porch; 250 Maine has a rooftop patio overlooking Penobscot Bay — choose wisely.

DINE at Sterlingtown Public House (289 Common Rd., Union; 207-785-0037) on Union’s historic common, surrounded by landmarks from the earliest days of Union, née Sterlingtown, immortalized in Ben Ames Williams’s 1940 historical novel Come Spring. The gastropub’s huge patio is one of the prettiest spots on the midcoast to eat al fresco (and enjoy an impressive list of Maine beers), with tableside firepits under twinkle lights and a backyard view sloping down to the wooded bank of the St. George River. Ames Williams’s pioneer protagonists never ate or drank so well, but their family homestead is just down the street, now home to the Union Historical Society (343 Common Rd., Union; 207-785-5444 ), which has some fascinating displays about the settlement era.

VIEW some of Maine’s most significant contributions to the art world at the Farnsworth Art Museum (16 Museum St., Rockland; 207-596-6457). Down the block, the Center for Maine Contemporary Art (21 Winter St., Rockland; 207-701-5005) displays Alison Hildreth‘s giant astronomical paintings, inspired by images from NASA’s Webb telescope. Between the two, Dowling Walsh Gallery (365 Main St., Rockland; 207-596-0084) features, among others, the work of Portland artist Will Sears, known for his colorful, geometric sign art and murals.

The squat lighthouse on Curtis Island welcomes mariners to Camden Harbor and can be admired from an overlook on Bay View Street; the Lincolnville General Store anchors Lincolnville Center. Click to enlarge.

For the Leaf Peeper Who Has Everything

STAY at the Camden Harbour Inn (83 Bay View St., Camden; 207-236-4200), an oh-so-stylish luxury property steps from the waterfront, with a fine view of the hills and all the perks money can buy, including top-notch fine dining at Natalie’s (207-236-7008) and a world-class spa. In Rockport, the Samoset Resort (220 Warrenton St., Rockport; 207-594-2511) dates to 1889 but has a fresh seaside-swank motif after a top-down renovation a few years back — also, a lauded, 18-hole waterfront golf course.

CRUISE up and down the midcoast on a multi-day windjammer foliage cruise. Rockland’s Schooner Stephen Taber (207-594-4723) and Camden’s Windjammer Angelique (800-282-9989) are among the tall ships offering three- and four-day fall-color trips, with simple but well-appointed cabins and surprisingly lavish meals. When you’re not ogling the trees inland, watch for seals and porpoises, ospreys and eagles, and the occasional whale.

FLY aboard a Penobscot Island Air (21 Terminal Ln., Owls Head; 207-596-7500) Cessna for a perspective like no other of greater Camden in its autumn splendor. From the air, the entire region is an unfurling tapestry of reds and greens and golds, with the sapphire of the bay right beside. Even Edna St. Vincent Millay might have been at a loss for words.

The paddocks and pastures of Horses with Hope Equine Rescue, at Broadview Farm.

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Maine News You May Have Missed https://downeast.com/our-towns/maine-news-october-2022/ Mon, 19 Sep 2022 21:05:30 +0000 https://downeast.com/?p=190634 Augusta

A piece of metal weighing six or seven pounds fell from the sky and landed near a Capitol security officer. The Federal Aviation Administration suspected it came off a plane on an international route but, as of press time, had not found the source.

Bar Harbor

The Abbe Museum, Maine’s only Smithsonian affiliate and a repository for Wabanaki history and culture, hired Cherokee Nation citizen Betsy Richards as its new executive director. She previously worked at a social-justice nonprofit in New York.

York

On York Beach, 50-year-old comedian Dane Cook proposed to 23-year-old fitness instructor and aspiring singer Kelsi Taylor. She said yes.

Westbrook

Happy Wheels, a roller rink formerly in Portland, reopened three years after closing. New co-owner Derek Fitzgerald grew up skating at the original location in the ’70s and ’80s.

Jackman

Heavy rain destroyed a culvert in Jackman, necessitating a 143-mile detour to bypass the washed-away section of road.

Camden

Historian David McCullough, a longtime seasonal resident, passed away at age 89. McCullough’s work twice received a Pulitzer Prize and twice a National Book Award, and in 2006, President George W. Bush awarded him the Presidential Medal of Freedom.

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September 2022 https://downeast.com/issues/september-2022/ Tue, 23 Aug 2022 15:20:04 +0000 https://downeast.com/?p=189259 Features

Best of Maine

Our 15th annual roundup of Maine’s best everything: art galleries to architects, beers to boutiques, golf courses to gift shops. How did your favorites do?

“The Kind of Meat My Camera Likes”

Mid-century midcoast photographer Kosti Ruohomaa loved to turn his lens on Maine’s out-of-the-way places and salt-of-the-earth people. A fascinating new exhibit at the Penobscot Marine Museum lets visitors see Maine as he did.

By Brian Kevin

A Connecting Place

With miles of undeveloped shoreline and quintessential down east quietude, Whiting’s Orange River is a little-visited paddler’s paradise. It’s also a critical link between ocean and inland ecosystems — and now, a showpiece for an ambitious effort to restore Maine’s coastal rivers.

By Adrienne Perron


Departments

North by East

See the trees for the forest in Arrowsic’s research woods, view the evolution of Maine’s identity through Bowdoin’s bicentennial art exhibition, and keep an eye out for rock carvings in a Phippsburg nature preserve. Plus, in Maine Dispatches, an all-time-great candlepin bowler’s final frame.

Food and Drink

Tropics-loving ginger grows in un-tropical Farmington, a Wilton restaurant fulfills a life’s dream, and a crab-dip recipe is good for Maine fishermen. Also, Portland’s Eastern Prom food trucks have a new place to park in the park.

Good Things from Maine

Maine State Prison residents fundraise for a midcoast food pantry, a Brunswick-based designer makes tattered garments trendy, and elegant Maine stationery is perfect for eloquent letters.

Maine Homes

A Sebago farmhouse that’s lived many past lives, hordes of hostas outside a Holden home, and the old mansions on MDI that are history.

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Where In Maine

Maine Moment

Dooryard

Editor’s note, reader feedback, responses to July’s Where in Maine, and more.

Columns

Excursions: Old York Historical Society; Room With a View.

My Favorite Place

Author Terry Gerritsen, on Piscataquis County’s Lobster Lake.


On Our Cover: Georgetown’s Malden Island, by Benjamin Williamson.

Additional photos: Tara Rice, Benjamin Williamson, and Cait Bourgault.

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Should Camden Remove Its 200-Year-Old Harbor-Front Dam? https://downeast.com/our-towns/should-camden-remove-its-200-year-old-montgomery-dam/ Fri, 01 Jul 2022 18:50:43 +0000 https://downeast.com/?p=186897 By Joel Crabtree
From our July 2022 issue

When it comes to scenery, the coastal enclave of Camden has an embarrassment of riches — its huddled collection of quaint inns, shops, and restaurants; the footbridge over the Megunticook River that nearly sags under the weight of hanging flower pots; the sheer face of Mount Battie looming up behind sailboats swaying at their moorings. The stately public library, a National Historic Landmark, presides over Harbor Park, with its paths winding over to where the river becomes a waterfall, cascading down a ragged slab of bedrock to the sea. Where is a photographer even to begin?

Many photos have, over the years, captured those falls at their most tumultuous, when water surges over the dam amid the spring melt or after a storm. Lately, a different sort of tumult has been building. The falls are regulated by Montgomery Dam, a 200-year-old concrete wall that backs up the river. In 2019, the town received a grant from the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration and the National Fish and Wildlife Foundation to assess what to do with several dams along the river, which flows from Megunticook Lake, just a few miles inland. The 267-page study, produced last year by environmental-engineering consultants, concluded that, of any alternative, removing the Montgomery Dam would “provide the greatest benefits” to both the waterway and the town.

Some residents immediately objected, and they banded together as the Save the Dam Falls Committee. “There’s a lot of talk about removing it,” group member Tom Rothwell says. “We’re happy with this beautiful waterfall the way it is.” They started spreading their message on pins and stickers and penned newspaper editorials and social-media missives. “Dam Straight” is an ongoing series of opinion pieces in the Camden Herald, with headlines such as “Our Select Board Has Failed the Democracy Test,” “Don’t Fall for the Fish Tale,” and “The Great Camden Flood — of Propaganda.”

Camden’s Montgomery Dam

The Megunticook River has tumbled dramatically into Camden Harbor since at least the 19th century, and for most of that time, the falls has been a regular subject of postcards and Polaroids, stereographs and cellphone shots.

The small dam — only about four feet tall at most points — has served a number of uses in its lifetime, from powering a grist mill to generating electricity. In 1992, ownership of the Montgomery Dam was transferred to the town, which has since been on the hook for upkeep, even though the dam’s days as an economic asset are long gone. The main arguments for removal are threefold: it would allow for fish passage, reduce risk of upstream flooding (based on climate-change models that predict heavier rainstorms), and, over the next 50 years, save the town hundreds of thousands of dollars according to preliminary projections from the study. The Save the Dam Falls Committee contends that a fish ladder would suffice and that the risk of flooding is overblown.

This past year, Save the Dam Falls circulated a petition in support of dam preservation; an opposing group, Restore Megunticook, started a petition in support of returning the river to something nearer its original state. Both wanted the town to put their petitions to a vote this summer, but town officials opted not to, in part on the chance that both measures would, paradoxically, pass (multiple residents, apparently not realizing the contradictory natures of the two petitions, signed both). If that were to happen, the town would find itself in even more of a bind about how to proceed.

Bob Falciani, chair of the select board, says the town will eventually put the issue to voters, in the form of a ballot question, possibly as soon as this fall, but he adds that the board won’t rush its review of the study. In the meantime, one thing the two sides agree on is that they aren’t entirely sure what the waterway would look like without the dam. Would it still surge after a good hard storm, or would it lose that old gravitas?

Rothwell, of Save the Dam Falls, thinks it isn’t worth risking the unknown when it comes to one of the town’s most well-loved pieces of scenery. He co-owns the Camden Deli, which sits directly above the falls — the view out back brings in a lot of customers, he says. He grew up in Camden, and to this day, his parents have a picture of him standing at the foot of the falls, as a child, on display in their living room. “This is a big part of my business,” he says. “This is a big part of me too.”


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July 2022 https://downeast.com/issues/july-2022/ Mon, 20 Jun 2022 17:57:34 +0000 https://downeast.com/?p=186291 Features

In With the Old

We’ve rounded up 40 of our favorite antiques stores, vintage shops, flea markets, and more along four winding antiques trails. Treasure hunters, it’s road-trip time.

By Sarah Stebbins, Adrienne Perron, Brian Kevin, and Virginia M. Wright

Down East Americana

In the easternmost counties in the country, fragments of a nostalgic American aesthetic linger along the byways and back roads.

Photographed by Benjamin Williamson

Uncertain Ground

Mainers are only beginning to grapple with the toxic legacy of “forever chemicals” on Maine farmland.

by Kate Olson


Departments

North by East

A dam mess in Camden, the island gardens of Celia Thaxter, Thomaston’s Henry Knox gets the Hamilton treatment, and America’s best bus stop is in Portland. In Maine Dispatches, your pet can go to college now too.

Food and Drink

Frozen kelp squares make Maine-ier smoothies, tacos and sushi get rolled into one in Bridgton, and shelling out for lobster is nothing new.

Good Things from Maine

Colorful and one-of-a-kind wall weavings, the nonprofit Common Threads sews a new future, and an exit interview with the outgoing executive director of the Maine Crafts Association.

Maine Homes

A decade-long renovation of a marsh-side cottage in Cape Porpoise, one garden in Friendship to rule them all, and the ag matchmaker who introduces farmers to farmland.

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Where In Maine

Maine Moment

Dooryard

Editor’s note, reader feedback, responses to May’s Where in Maine, and more.

Columns

Essay: A Refuge Remembered; Room With a View.

My Favorite Place

Apprenticeshop executive director Isabelle Feracci, on the nonprofit’s workshop floor.


On Our Cover: Lobstering off North Haven, by William Trevaskis.

Additional photos: Mat Trognor, Benjamin Williamson, and Greta Rybus.

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“Maine’s Cool Little City” And Other (Dubious?) Maine Town Mottos https://downeast.com/our-towns/maines-cool-little-city-and-other-dubious-maine-town-mottos/ Fri, 01 Apr 2022 14:47:00 +0000 https://downeast.com/?p=182972

Notes
1. Astrophysicists say there’s no actual center of the universe.
2. Good-looking town, no doubt. But stiff competition for prettiest in all of Maine.
3. So called ever since the early-20th-century boomtown sprung from the north woods, as if by magic.
4. Picking teeth is an unpleasant task (and “Former Toothpick Capital” would be more accurate).
5. Sounds a bit too much like a Jersey Shore promo.
6. Lovely words for a lovely scene.

By Will Grunewald | From our April 2022 issue


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How to Win Gold at the National Toboggan Championships https://downeast.com/travel-outdoors/how-to-win-gold-at-the-national-toboggan-championships/ Tue, 01 Feb 2022 18:50:01 +0000 https://downeast.com/?p=180370 By Jennifer Hazard
From our February 2022 issue

In February 2020, Jim Jefferson and his teammates on the Four Wingnuts made it from the top of Camden Snow Bowl’s ​​Jack Williams Toboggan Chute onto the ice of Hosmer Pond in 9.21 seconds — a time that earned them first place out of some 200 teams in the 4-person division (and the fastest time overall) in the 30th annual U.S. National Toboggan Championships. We asked Jefferson, a merchant marine and maker of wooden toys (Knockabout Toys) who lives in Searsmont, what it takes to go for the gold.


The National Toboggan Championships have a reputation for being kind of a gonzo party. Is it also a serious competition?

It’s something to do in February with a bunch of friends when cabin fever sets in. I’m a merchant marine, so I ask some of my crew members and fellow captains to join me. I’ve been racing for at least 20 years, and I usually race on five or six teams. We’ve won it four times and are a team of dedicated racers. Most folks are there to have fun — we usually wear capes and funny hats — but once you make the finals, then it’s time to get serious.

As a woodworker, what do you think makes a toboggan a good racer?

It’s been 10 years since I made my sled, and I’m due for a new one. A professional sled might be heavier, sturdier built, like a stiff, fast ski. Mine gets the job done, like a pickup truck.

Got a toboggan? Camden Snow Bowl’s 400-foot-long toboggan chute is typically open to the public on winter weekends and holidays. An hour of tobogganing costs $10 per person.

So what are the secrets to speed in the chute?

First, stay on the sled. You want to be locked in well as a unit, so you don’t tip it. Weight also helps. The four of us weigh about 900 pounds, and weight equals speed. I also wax my sled before the race. So many things can make the difference — the sled, the team, the ice, the weather, and how your start goes. Exhaling rather than inhaling as you leave the chute can make a difference by a fraction of a second.

Do you have any time-honored pre-race traditions?

I like to show off my trophies in my truck — you know, to pump up the chest.

This interview has been edited and condensed for brevity and clarity.


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February 2022 https://downeast.com/issues/february-2022/ Tue, 25 Jan 2022 19:21:16 +0000 https://downeast.com/?p=180312 Features

The Golden Age of Maine Pizza Is Now

From old-school parlors to chi-chi Neapolitan joints to brick ovens on trailers, Vacationland has more and better pie purveyors than ever before.

By Will Grunewald, Brian Kevin, Adrienne Perron, Joe Ricchio, and Joel Crabtree

Downhill from Here

A snow (and speed) lover’s guide to Maine sledding.

By Jennifer Hazard

Burn So Bright

In Maine, heating with wood is more than a tradition — it’s a way of life. In an excerpt from her new memoir Woodsqueer: Crafting a Sustainable Rural Life, Gretchen Legler reflects on the pleasures of the hearth — and of the labor that keeps the home fires burning.

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Special Advertising Section: Aging

How advocates for older adults are working to make the Pine Tree State more livable and sustainable for retirees. Plus, a guide to retirement communities.

By Jennifer Van Allen


Departments

North by East

A Brunswick aerospace company plans rocket launches down east, a Michigan company adds Maine ski terrain to its portfolio, and an essay collection considers Maine’s role in the organics movement. Plus, in Maine Dispatches, a hemisphere-trotting lobster buoy.

Food and Drink

On MDI, a restaurateur turned salumist opens Colvard & Company. In Waterville, Front & Main is a hotel restaurant without the hotel guests. All over Maine, they’re parsing the new “right to food” amendment.

Good Things from Maine

Six Maine-made charcuterie boards that are ready for their close-up, three Maine-made cards for your valentine, one Maine-made oud that’s unlike any other stringed instrument.

Maine Homes

The never-ending renovation of a Newcastle schoolhouse and the everlasting ardor behind three historic love nests. Plus, Maine Preservation’s new executive director talks plans for the enduring nonprofit.

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Where in Maine

Maine Moment

Dooryard

Editor’s note, reader feedback, responses to December’s Where in Maine, and more.

Columns

Room With a View.

My Favorite Place

Cookbook author Chris Toy, on Merrymeeting Bay.


On Our Cover: The state of Maine pizza, by Derek Bissonnette.

Additional photos: Benjamin Williamson, Sienna Clough, and Danielle Sykes

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